Am zis ca o sa scriu despre prima parte a experientei din muntii Pamir, insa nu am reusit sa scriu in timp real.
Am plecat din Dushanbe spre Karaikhum, odihniti si cu forte proaspete, un drum scurt de 240 de km, insa socoteala din targ nu s-a potrivit cu cea de acasa.
Am avut parte de cel mai spectaculos, greu si periculos traseu de offroad pe care am condus vreodata, peisajele au fost naucitoare, rauri albastre, munti inalti, vai adanci si terenuri minate
. Doar primii 100 km au fost umbriti de un mare nor de nisip, venit din Afganistan. La Karaikhum nu am ajuns, traseul fiind foarte foarte greu, am dormit in masina si am ajuns a doua zi, doar pentru a alimenta, manca si apoi iarasi la drum spre Khorog, 280 km, unde am ajuns franti de oboseala. Pe acest traseu am intalnit mai multi biciclisti care faceau ceea ce facem noi, insa pe bicicleta (toata stima noastra), le-am oferit apa rece si mancare. Am mai trecut pe langa un italian ce tranzita Pamirul pe o Vespa in incercarea de a vedea toata lumea, si pe langa camioane in locuri in care nu prea incapeam doua masini.
Din cand in cand, pe Pamir highway, se gasesc puncte se control, militare sau de politie, care iti verifica documentele. La unul din ele, am primit paine; cum am muscat din ea, mi-am dat seama cat de foame imi era, si am realizat ca nu mancasem aproape nimic in ziua aceea.
Dupa Khorog, am pornit in etapa 3 din cele 4 prevazute pentru Pamir si anume ruta Khorog-Murghab (305 km). Avand in minte traseul infernal din prima zi, ne-am propus sa dormim la cort, pe traseu, insa am fost surprinsi de un drum bunicel, unde se putea circula si cu 50 km la ora, asa ca am ajuns la Murghab dupa 9 ore, chiar odihniti, in ciuda faptului ca Suzuki-ul necesita apa la sistemul de racire din 15 in 15 km, pentru ultimii 150 km, ceva legat de altitudine…
Tot astazi am atins altitudini de peste 4200 metri, pentru cativa zeci de kilometri. Nu am putut conduce, lipsa oxigenului nu mi-a prins bine, a condus Leo (multumesc Leo), care, tot din cauza oxigenului redus ce ii ajungea la creier, m-a angrenat in niste reprize de ras, de parca fumasem iarba; a fost intens si ciudat totodata.
Apropo,in sfarsit este FRIIIIG, purtam hanorace, nu ne e dor de desert.
Acum suntem la Murghab, dormim in regim “home stay” si suntem in continuare ametiti de la lipsa de oxigen (suntem la 3500 metri altitudine).
Inca un aspect ciudat si ma pun la culcare. Aici toti au trasaturi mogoleze, haine mongoleze si dorm in iurte, dar pana in Mongolia mai avem vreo 3000km.
Noapte buna
Va urma…
PS. Video-ul cu Pamirul peste cateva zile din Kirghistan, nu avem nici viteza la internet, nici timp pentru editare.
PPS. Stiu ca sunteti in numar destul de mare, voi cei care imi urmariti aventura. Fac asta in primul rand pentru sufletul meu, dar si pentru a ajuta echipa de la Somaro sa adune cat mai multe fonduri pentru a-i putea sustine pe cei nevoiasi in lupta cu greutatile de zi cu zi. Este vorba de oameni pe care norocul i-a ocolit si care au nevoie de ajutorul nostru! Haideti sa li-l oferim!
Pamir
I promised to write about the first part of the experience in the Pamir mountains, but I didn’t have the time to do it.
We left from Dushanbe to Karaikhum, well rested and to the full strength, a road that only had 240 km, but things don’t always turn out as planned.
It was the most spectacular, difficult and dangerous offroad itinerary, the landscaped were stunning, blue rivers, high mountains, deep valleys and mine fields.. The first 100 kilometers were shadowed by a huge cloud of sand, coming from Afganistan. The road being difficult, we slept in the cars and only made it to Karaikhum the next day, where we stopped to fuel the cars and eat, and then left for Khorog, a 280 kilometers drive, where we arrived very tired. We met many cyclists doing the same thing as us, but on bikes (our respect), and we offered them cold water and food. We also surpassed an Italian, transiting the Pamir on a Vespa, on his way to seeing the world, and we met trucks in places were 2 cars couldn’t fit one near the other.
Now and then, on the Pamir highway, there are military and police control points, where they check your documents. At one of these control points, they gave us bread. It was only when I took a bite that I realised how hungry I was and that I had eaten nothing all day.
After Khorog, it was time for the 3rd of the 4 stages we anticipated for Pamir, and that is the road from Khorog to Murghab (305 km). Having in mind the infernal road of the first day, we intended to sleep in tents, but we were surprised by a pretty good road, where you could drive even with a speed of 50 km/hour, so we made it to Murghab after 9 hours, almost fresh, despite the fact that the Suzuki car needed water every 15 kilometers for the last 150 kilometers… something about the altitude.
It is also today that we reached the altitude of 4200 meters, for some dozens kilometers. I wasn’t able to drive, due to the lack of oxygen, so Leo did (thank you, Leo). It was also Leo the one that, due to the same lack of oxygen, made me laugh so hard, as if we had smoked weed. It was both intense and weird.
By the way, it is almost COOOOLD, we are wearing hoodies and don’t miss the desert.
We are now in Murghab, at a “home stay”, still dizzy from the lack of oxygen (we are at an altitude of 3500 meters).
I will tell you one more strange thing and then go to bed. Everybody has Mongol traits here, wears Mongol clothes, sleep in yurts, even if we are 3000 kilometers away from Mongolia.
Good night!
To be continued…
PS. I will upload the Pamir video in a few days, from Kirghizstan, as there is low quality internet connection here and I don’t have time to edit it.
PPS. I know you are many, you who follow my adventure. I am doing this mainly for my soul, but also to help the Somaro team raise as much funds as possible in order to sustain the needy ones in their fight with the daily difficulties. It is about people luck forgot about and who need our help. Let’s help them!
